After planting about 80 fruit trees with my dad, I realized that the process can be very fun as long as you make sure the fruit tree is having fun as well. We hope that this guide on how to plant fruit trees will help you start your planting journey well. – Mané Mehrabyan
How to Plant Fruit Trees in 10 Steps (Bare Root)
How to Plant Fruit Trees: Materials Needed
- Another helper to hold the tree vertically (will need two sets of hands)
- A bucket/bin to soak the tree roots in water
- A shovel or spade for digging
- For dwarf and semi-dwarf trees, a stake/post to place next to the tree
- Something to bang the post in (a hammer or rock will do)
- Tree ties to connect the stake to the tree
- Tree guards for protecting against animal damage
- 1-2 Gallons of Water
1. Prepare Tree
- When the trees arrive in a box, pull out the trees and place them in a cool (not freezing) place out of the sun, e.g. your garage.
- If the trees have been in transport for more than 4 days, be sure to soak immediately in water for 6-24 hours and plant immediately after.
- If you need to wait for more that a week to plant, be sure to keep the roots wet by spraying with water. Keep the roots in the plastic wrap so that they stay moist and healthy. You can keep the trees in a cool shaded basement or garage. Then soak in water and plant afterwards.
2. Prepare Soil
You should prepare the planting area before planting the tree.
- Fruit trees grow best in well-draining, nutrient rich, loamy soil which is slightly acidic.
- Different fruit trees vary in their preferred acidity but most will still grow tolerate soils in the range of 5.0-7.5.
- Before planting, you can test the soil (you can use inexpensive DIY methods) for acidity, soil type, and drainage.
- Feel free to add organic matter such as compost to your soil to increase nutrients. However do not add fertilizer directly to the soil the tree’s roots will touch.
- Till the soil so that the nutrients become integrated into the soil and the soil becomes less compact so that the roots grow well.
- Dig a hole that is about 18” deep and 18” in diameter. Bring the soaking trees next to the planting site without the roots drying out.
- Put some soil in a cone shape in the hole so that when you place the tree down, the roots slope down and fan out. Trim the roots as needed so that they do not twist. This will enable the tree to spread its roots further.
- For grafted apple, pear, and quince trees, the graft union where the rootstock meets the top of the tree should be about 2 inches above ground level. For other grafted fruit trees, the union can be at ground level. However, for seedlings which don’t have a union, just make sure that the roots are covered with soil.
- If you cover the union then the tree will grow to a standard size and not have the characteristics of the rootstock.
- In order for the tree to be supported and grow straight, we recommend placing a stake next to it. This is applicable only if you have a dwarf or semi-dwarf tree.
- Place a solid metal stake 8’-10’ tall next to the tree and pound it in. It should be secure and bear the weight of the tree. This step can also be done after you fill the tree in with soil.
- Holding the tree vertically, place the nutrient rich topsoil you dug out back near the roots. Once half the soil is placed around the tree, carefully press the soil down with your feet to destroy air pockets. Do NOT put fertilizer or compost into the hole where the roots are as this will damage the tree.
- Put the rest of the soil on top and press down repeatedly with your foot.
- If the tree is on a slope, create a 2’ rim of soil around the tree above ground level to keep the water around the tree.
- Immediately after planting, water the tree with about 1-2 gallons of water. If the soil goes down, add more soil.
- For the first year, water about one to two times a week with 1-2 gallons of water. Afterward you can water yourself only when the tree becomes stressed and experiences drought.
- Pruning is an important part of learning how to plant fruit trees. Pruning during planting will help train the tree from the beginning into the shape that is best for it to bear fruit.
- If you are planting a sweet cherry tree, do not prune in the spring but in the late summer since they are more susceptible to diseases on the cut limbs.
- The central leader form/pyramidal shape is great for apple, pear, persimmon & pecan trees.
- Remove the lower branches that are growing less than 2 feet above the ground.
- Choose a vertical leader with about four evenly spaced scaffold branches around it.
- Prune back the central leader to 18 inches above the highest scaffold branch.
- Cut scaffold branches that aren’t 45-60 degrees. If two scaffold branches are too close to one another, remove one.
- Finally, prune the scaffold branches so that they are 12″ long.
- The open center/vase shape is great for almond, apricot, cherry, fig, nectarine, olive, peach, pear, persimmon, plum and pomegranate trees.
- Remove the lower branches that are growing less than 18″ above the ground.
- Then, prune any branches that are growing upward in the center to create the vase shape.
- Choose 3-5 evenly-spaced 45 degree main branches and cut the rest. These branches should be about 18-36″ above the ground.
- Finally, prune back these scaffold branches 1/4 of their length to encourage lateral branching and stiffening.
- Immediately after planting the tree, place a tree guard around the trunk. This protects the tree from rabbits and rodents who will eat the bark and kill your tree. The tree guards should let air flow in. Mouse guards which rap around the bark are the best protectors. However we don’t recommended using them in the summer since insects can create habitats between the mouse guard and the bark.
- Cover the top of the soil near the tree with mulch so that the moisture stays in the soil. Moreover weeds are less likely to grow. The mulch should not touch the bark of the tree.
10. Most Important Step: Have Fun!
- Now that you know how to plant fruit trees, this last step is the most important. If it’s your first time planting, having fun and learning from your mistakes will help you and the tree enjoy the process.
- So invite your friends or family, and together plant some trees! Don’t do it alone. I promise you it will be something you all will remember together, just like I still remember planting those 80 fruit trees with my dad.
You can read more in our growing guide about how to prune and take care of the tree. This will help your young tree survive, stay stimulated, and bear healthy fruit. If you would like to discover these and our fruit trees, explore our fruit tree catalog or shop page.
7 thoughts on “How to Plant Fruit Trees”
I found Mehrabyan Nursery searching for a Wickson Apple tree. While there, I also ordered a peach, cherry and pear tree. Because of unusual weather in spring 2021, shipping was delayed and I began to wonder if I had made an error in choice. I did not. All went into the ground immediately and within days the Wickson was flowering. Weeks later, the cherry has leafed out and the Jupiter peach is about to come alive. The pear is yet to join the in but the wood is green with life within. Even though I sent emails of frustration waiting on shipping, Surik was always kindly and responsive. I only wish I had more area for more trees. I highly recommend Mehrabyan Nursery.
Hi Stephen! I am so happy to hear that your peach, cherry, pear, and apple trees are doing well! I know it must have been frustrating when the shipping was delayed and my sincere apologies for that. But I am glad my dad Surik was able to be there for you during that time. My dad is one of the kindest and most patient people I know and I am doing my best to learn form his character. So in a way, I am also glad you got to meet him. 🙂
In my research (googling) advise to buy from a reputable nurser was an important criteria . Mehrabyan Nurseries’s mission statement gave me confidence in making my purchase from them. The shipment of four bare root and dormant trees took only three days from upstate NY to my home in New Hampshire . The nursery’s latitude in Ithaca is slightly north of my home and this helped me feel comfortable for the survivability of my baby trees.
Hi David! We are happy that you baby trees arrived safely! Let us know how they are doing in the years that follow.
We ordered 3 and received 4 each of the paw paw and persimmon trees we wanted. Sadly only 1 of the paw Paws was viable, but 3 of 4 of the persimmons took nicely and are leafibg up nicely. The obe pawpaw that sprouted Is doing great but sad about the rest
It will take a little bit longer to get adjusted and if the tissue is still green, then they will start grow. I will refund your dead trees. Just water them weekly bases,. Pawpaw trees do not like transplanting, and when they pass the transplanting stress, you can forget about them.
Please keep us updated.
I am not sure if we reply your July comments. I added additional tree intentionally. Let me know how the trees are doing and how we can help.
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